Crocheted Cat – Translated Amineko Pattern

This is the most popular page on my blogger blog, so I thought it best to re-post it here. Just a reminder, this isn’t a pattern I came up with, just translated. 

Oh man. I’ve done it. I’ve actually found a free pattern of a Amineko. But, the problem was, it was in Japanese. Bablefish to the rescue! But, if you’ve used online translators before, you know that you get a rather amusing version of English.

So, I put on my thinking cap, and asked around the sites I lurk at, and was able to get some help deciphering this pattern. Special thanks to yarndiva at crochetville for her extra special help, and Sushi Mifune and squambo on craftster for their initial translation help.


Update! (6/11/06) The author of the Japanese pattern has posted her own 10-page translated version in English! It is different than what I have here, but that’s Babelfish for ya! I would link to it directly, but per the instructions of the designer:

“DO NOT link to the patterns or images on this web page directly, using my server. If you would like your visitors to see my patterns or images, please link to http://www5a.biglobe.ne.jp/~mite/index.html.”

Just click on the link that says “pattern of crocheted Cat with diagram (Amineko)”

Happy crocheting!

Amineko (Crocheted Cat)

No needle size is given, so just use whatever the yarn calls for. As far as yarn goes, I’ve heard a lot of people are using Red Heart Super Saver…nice and cheap! Make sure that your crochets are tight, too. Someone suggested using a needle that is one sized smaller than called for, to make the stitches even tighter. Stuff each part as it’s completed.

Head
Row 1: Sc 6 times into a ring (6)
Row 2: 2 sc in each sc (12)
Row 3: *2 sc in one stitch, then 1 sc* all the way around (18)
Row 4: *2 sc in one stitch, then 2 sc* all the way around (24)
Row 5: *2 sc in one stitch, then 3 sc* all the way around (30)
Row 6: *2 sc in one stitch, then 4 sc* all the way around (36)
Row 7: *2 sc in one stitch, then 5 sc* all the way around (42)
Row 8: *2 sc in one stitch, then 6 sc* all the way around (48)
Rows 9 – 15: Work even for rows 9-15 (48 each round)
Row 16: *sc dec, then 6 sc* all the way around (42)
Row 17: *sc dec, then 5 sc* all the way around (36)
Row 18: *sc dec, then 4 sc* all the way around (30)
Row 19: *sc dec, then 3sc* all the way around (24)
Row 20: *sc dec, then 2 sc* all the way around (18)
Leave a 12″ tail and fasten off.

Torso
Row 1: Sc 6 times into a ring (6)
Row 2: 2 sc in each sc (12)
Row 3: *2 sc in one stitch, then 1 sc* all the way around (18)
Row 4: *2 sc in one stitch, then 2 sc* all the way around (24)
Row 5: *2 sc in one stitch, then 3 sc* all the way around (30)
Row 6: *2 sc in one stitch, then 4 sc* all the way around (36)
Rows 7 – 23: Work even for rows 7-23 (36 each round)
Row 24: *sc dec, then 4 sc* all the way around (30)
Row 25 & 26: Work even all the way around (30)
Row 27: *sc dec, then 3 sc* all the way around (24)
Row 28 & 29: Work even for rows 28 & 29 (24 each round)
Row 30: *sc dec, then 2 sc* all the way around (18)
Rows 31 & 32: Work even for rows 31 & 32 (18 each round)
Leave a 12″ tail and fasten off.

Arm & Hand (make 2)
Row 1: Sc 6 times into a ring (6)
Row 2: 2 sc in each sc (12)
Rows 3 – 6: Work even (12 each round)
Row 7: *sc dec, then 1 sc* all the way around (8)
Rows 8 – 28: Work even (8 each round)
Leave a 12″ tail and fasten off.

Leg & Foot (make 2)
Row 1: Sc 6 times into a ring (6)
Row 2: 2 sc in each sc (12)
Row 3: *2 sc in one stitch, then 3 sc* all the way around (15)
Rows 4-7: Work even (15 each round)
Row 8: *sc dec, then 1 sc* all the way around (10)
Rows 9-24: Work even (10 each round)
Leave a 12″ tail and fasten off.

Tail
Row 1: Sc 6 times into a ring (6)
Row 2: *2 sc in one stitch, then 2 sc* all the way around (8)
Rows 3-22: Work even
Leave a 12″ tail and fasten off.

Ear (make 2)
Row 1: Sc 4 times into a ring (4)
Row 2: 2 sc in each sc (8)
Row 3: *2 sc in one stitch, then 3 sc* all the way around (10)
Row 4: *2 sc in one stitch, then 4 sc* all the way around (12)
Row 5: *2 sc in one stitch, then 5 sc* all the way around (14)
Leave a 12″ tail and fasten off.

Mouth
Row 1: Sc 7 times into a ring (7)
Row 2: *2 sc in one stitch, then 7 sc* all the way around (14)
Rows 3-10: Work even
Row 11: Make 4 decreases, but instead of making a “two stitches decrease”, you pick up 3 stitches, then 4, then 4, then 3. (end up with 4 stitches in the end)
Leave a 12″ tail and fasten off.

Assembly

Attaching Head to Body:
Partially stuff the head and the body, leaving some wiggle room around the neck area. Stitch the sc’s of the head opening to the sc’s of the body opening, leaving enough room to poke through the last of the stuffing. When stuffed, stitch the opening shut.

Attaching Arms to Body:
I attach the tops of the Arms right underneith the Head. Join the Arm to the Body by stitching the Arm shut flat (not rounded), then attaching this flattened part to the Body.

Attaching Legs to Body / Tail to Body:
These I stitched to the Body as I did the Head – not flattened, but round. I made the initial mistake of stitching the Legs in too high…be sure of where you want it placed before you begin stitching.

Attaching Ears to Head:
This was pretty straight-forward. I just made sure that the ears had a bit of a curve to them before I stitched them in place, simmilar to a real cat’s ears.

Attaching Muzzle to Head:
Again, pretty simple and straight forward. I added embelishments after it was stitched to the head – not before.

If you have any suggestions about altering the pattern. I’ll post up completed pics of any completed projects on my blog.

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14 Comments

  1. Sharron Arnold said,

    Pattern very similar to crochet monkey (Chimu Chimu), of which I have made many for charities. Thankyou for the easy translation. Much easier to work from.
    Sharron…

  2. Heidi said,

    First of all thank you sooooo much for posting this. It crochet up great. I would like to say that if you want to make your amineko weighted a good place to look for pebles is your local dollar store. Also I made the legs a little longer because I like a loooong legged look.

  3. Tatjana said,

    Hi,

    Thank you for the pattern…I used stuffing for the feet and hands and I’m trying to figure a way to put pipe cleaners in the limbs to make them more poseable. What I’m having trouble with is the mouth. I think there’s an error. If you have 7 sc in the first round and in the 2nd you do 2sc in 1 and then 7sc, repeat…you don’t end up with 14…do you mean to do 2sc in 1, then 5sc? If you do this, 2 times, you get 14. I did that, repeating the 14, but now I have a log-type shape for a muzzle. That can’t be? I think the pattern should be increasing every row. Do you have any suggestions?

    • Alla said,

      Today, I began making my first amineko. His muzzle seems to be pretty confusing. When you finish the row, do you turn and crochet in opposite direction? Or it should be crochetted the same way as head, body, legs, arms, and tail – in circles? And then it should be fixed to the face in two layers?

      Though I checked and rechecked it, the head looks a little like pumpkin (in the book on the pictures all the heads are more roundish). I think, I’ll redo it and add several more rows of even work (let say, rows 9 – 18 instead of
      9 – 15).

      Indeed, there’s a typo in discription of the mouth – row 2 should be crochette 2 sc in first sc and in every one of remaining six crochets. Only then we’ll get required 14 sc.

      Please someone help me with mouth – does it have to have a seam? Thank you very much.

      Ple

    • Sue said,

      Mouth: Copied from Book
      Row 1-make 7 sc into a ring (7)
      Row 2- 2 sc in each st. (14)
      Row 3-10 Work even (14
      Row 11 Special dec: insert
      hook into front loop only then into the
      next 3 sts, YO and pull yarn through
      all loops on hook, repeat for next 4st,
      repeat for next 3 st,
      repeat for next 4 st. (4)

  4. Tatjana said,

    I kind of went “rogue” on the mouth…I did it the same as the head and kept increasing it until it seemed the right size and then did the decrease trying to stay within what they suggested and then sewed it to the face in the approximate right spot. I think it should have been one layer, but with the reducing they suggested, it almost formed a ball, so it’s kind of thick on the face. I think that it should just increase and then be attached…not decrease. If you follow the pattern, it comes out as a short tail. Good luck.

  5. Meet Dandelow! | helencrochet1 said,

    […] Pattern reference  https://kinkylilblackdress.wordpress.com/little-black-cat-translated-amineko-pattern/ […]

  6. Leslie said,

    I noticed the “hands” and “feet” are different colors…when do you switch to main color?

    • Bonnie said,

      Arms and legs…after 5 rows make color change

  7. treliz said,

    I know it depends from the type of yarn but how much yarn is needed for this? Is it better to do it with cotton, or another kind? (I have a merino worsted skein that would look lovely but will it be enough?)

  8. pogostemon said,

    Thank you for the translation, I found this easier to follow than the book. I used yellow split peas tied in a bit of old stocking/panty hose instead of pebbles

  9. Connie Kaseweter Pullen said,

    I was worried about the mouth at first, too. However, if you go ahead and complete the entire mouth, you will find that it closes at the the end to make a double-layered mouth that you lay flat across the face.

  10. Jennyfurcat said,

    For the mouth I did not like the look of the decreases in row 11. Also mouth was a little small. So I did this version –

    1. sc 6 into loop (6)
    2. (sc x 2, 2sc inc) x 2 (8)
    3. (2sc inc) x 8 (16)
    4-11. sc (16)
    12. (2sc dec) x 8 (8)
    13. (2sc dec) x 4 (4)

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